When Should I Replace My Water Heater?

I’m often asked “When should I replace my water heater?” or “When will my water heater fail?” The answer to both questions is “I don’t know! But I can give you and educated guess”. By a failing water heater I mean a water heater that starts leaking. A leaking heater cannot be repaired…not ever. If a heater stops producing hot water, then it most likely can be fixed. But if it leaks, it is dead.

So, should a homeowner just wait until a heater starts leaking to replace it? No. There are some educated assessments that can be made. First, how old is the heater? Every heater has a sticker on it that gives some important information like the size (gallons), the energy source (electric, natural gas, propane gas, etc…), energy input (watts, btu’s, etc…), model number and serial number. With the model number and serial number a person can get online with the manufacturer’s website and find the date the heater was produced. Most water heaters take 3 months from the time they are manufactured until they are installed in a home.

We see most water heater failures in the 10-12 year old range. The oldest water heater I have replaced was 35 years old. It hadn’t failed, it just needed a new gas valve that was no longer available.

What I usually tell customers is:

• If your water heater is 10 years old, it owes you nothing and you shouldn’t be surprised if it starts leaking
• If your heater is 15 years old you can expect it to fail any time
• If your heater is 20 years old, failure is imminent and you should replace immediately

My theory is that if a water heater hits 10 years, it should be replaced soon. Why wait for a possible flood? You don’t ride on your car tires until they blow out do you? Once tires hit the recommended mileage, we generally replace them. Same with a water heater. Once it hits the expected life time, change it.

Another reason to consider preemptively replacing a water heater is energy usage. I read an article the other day that quoted a trade magazine saying that every inch of sediment in a water heater requires 70% more energy to heat the water.

Every heater has some sediment in it. It’s a natural result of heating water. Some sediment is calcium from hard water, some is sediment from a well, and some is just particulates suspended in water. Any sediment in water just sitting in a heater tank will settle to the bottom. No avoiding it. Flushing out your heater annually will keep the sediment at bay. However, if you haven’t been doing that, then your heater probably has a fair amount of sediment in it. The more sediment there is, the more difficult it can be to flush it out. Sediment can also cause undue stress on the steel tank of a gas water heater.

The gas burner on a heater heats the bottom of the tank. A build-up of sediment insulates the bottom of the tank causing the burner to run longer and heat the steel to a higher temperature than normal. This higher heat stresses the steal causing premature failure.

With electric water heaters, sediment can build up to the point where it completely encompasses the lower element insulating it from the water to be heated.  More energy wasted.

There are maintenance items that can be done to extend the life a water heater. More on that next time!

What is the MaP Toilet Rating?

As I said in my last post, some toilets are high efficient (use little water) but are low performance. There is a way to determine if a high efficient toilet will flush well before it is installed.  It is called the MaP rating.  MaP stands for Maximum Performance. MaP is a Maximum Performance scale that rates toilet efficiency and flush performance, plus gives detailed information on individual toilet characteristics. The result is up-to-date, independently verified comprehensive toilet information in a SEARCHABLE database.

IMPORTANT:  MaP scores represent the number of grams of solid waste (soybean paste and toilet paper) that a particular toilet can flush and remove completely from the fixture in a SINGLE FLUSH.

History of MaP Toilet Testing

MaP was developed in 2002-03 in response to the many complaints of the 1990s about the new “low-flow” toilets (which, by the way, flushed with 1.6 gallons of water, less than 50% of the water used in its predecessors of the 1980s!).  MaP development was sponsored by members of the municipal water utility industry.  For more information on the background of MaP over the past two decades, click here.

While many toilet performance tests have existed for years (manufacturers tests, Consumer Reports and plumbing codes), ONLY MaP offers consumers the test results from closely replicating REAL WORLD demands put upon a toilet.  MaP testing was initiated specifically to identify how well popular models performed using realistic test media (fecal simulation).

Testing Procedures

"MaP incorporates the use of soybean paste and toilet paper to duplicate the real world demands put upon toilets.  Each toilet is tested to failure - - that is, soybean paste is repeatedly added to the toilet until the fixture can no longer remove it in a single flush.  Since 2003, over 3,500 different tank-type toilet models have been tested and reported in the MaP online database.  Today, 3,360 tank-type toilet models are listed in the MaP'searchable' database.” - MaP Testing, http://www.map-testing.com/

The above is taken directly from the MaP website.  I couldn’t say it any better, so I quoted it.

The MaP scale ranges from 250 – 1,000.  It is the number of grams of waste a toilet will flush cleanly.  At Apple Plumbing will only install toilets with a MaP rating of 800 or better. Click the image below to see what the different ratings mean.

We had one customer who purchased a very nice looking Kohler toilet.  We did not check the MaP rating prior to installation.  Turns out is had a MaP rating of 250 and did not flush solid waste at all!

I’ve see some toilets at the big box stores with a rating on the box of 1,250.  Beware, this would not be a MaP rating but a rating determined by the manufacturer or a testing agency no recognized by MaP or the EPA.  The maximum MaP rating is 1,000.  As I said, we only install toilets with a MaP rating of 800 or more.  We have found that those toilets flush very well with little or no problems to the consumer.  However, if you try hard enough, you can clog any toilet.  Also, beware of ads showing toilets flushing golf balls, balloons, etc.  You don’t flush these items during daily use of your toilet so the ads are meaningless.

Only judge a toilet by its MaP rating!

All About Toilets

We all use it, many times every day: The throne, The Crapper, The Head, a Water Closet…The Toilet.  It’s one on those inventions that has become so much an everyday item that we scarcely notice it…until it malfunctions.  The flush toilet was invented in 1596 by Sir John Harrington when he described a new kind of water closet: a raised cistern with a small pipe down which water ran when released by a valve. It wasn’t until 200 years later that a man named Alexander Cummings created an S shaped pipe under the basin that kept seer gasses from entering the “closet”.  This was the S Trap.  Every plumbing fixture now has a trap between it and the sewer to prevent gases from entering the living space.

In the 1880’s Prince Edward of England hired a prominent plumber by the name of Thomas Crapper to install lavatories in several palaces.  Mr. Crapper invented the ball cock.  This is the valve in a toilet tank that allows water in to refill the tank and then automatically shuts off.  Contrary to popular belief, Thomas Crapper did not invent the toilet….he just improved upon it.

Early toilets used as much as 7.5 gallons of water per flush.  That is treated water going down the drain.  And 7.5 gallons of waste water that needs to be treated.  Very few, if any, toilets in use today use 7.5 gallons per flush.  However, many current toilets use 3.5 gallons per flush (gpf).  That was the standard prior to 1994.

The 3.5 gpf toilet was a flushing fool.  The Energy Policy Act of 1992 required that all toilets manufactured for sale in the USA after January 1, 1994 use not more than 1.6 gallons per flush.  That is less than half the water used in the then standard toilet.  The Act became effective on October 24, 1992.  That gave manufacturers of toilets a scant 14 months to design, test and manufacture a totally new toilet.

The first few generations of the 1.6 gpf toilet were horrible.  You had to flush twice just to clean the bowl.  Many clogged way too easily.  People were hording 3.5 gpf toilets and selling them on the black market.  Canada had no such law at the time so many Americans were crossing the northern border to buy flushable toilets.  There is still some perception that the low flow toilets today don’t flush well.  Some don’t, but many do.

Some toilets are high efficient (use little water) but low performance. There is a way to determine if a high efficient toilet will flush well before it is installed.  It is called the MaP rating.  MaP stands for Maximum Performance.  See my next post to read all about MaP rating!

Visit Us at the Home Show for Free Water Testing!

We'll be at the Carroll County Home Show this weekend at the Ag Center, March 12 & 13. Bring us a sample of your tap water, and we'll test it for acid, hardness, nitrates, chlorine & iron right on the spot for you! We'll have plenty of water sample containers on hand in case you forget. Chris, our water treatment specialist, will also be on hand to answer any and all questions about water treatment systems. See you this weekend!

Why Sewer Pipe Inspections Should be on Every Home Buyers Inspection List

They say spring and summer are the peak times for real estate transactions, and for some home buyers, soon after moving into their new home is when they discover they have a sewer line issue. This past summer, we’ve had more than a few customers who’ve recently purchased homes and soon after discovered that their sewer lines were cracked, crushed, clogged with roots or other matter, or had multiple sags or “bellies” (more on that later) in the line. All of these conditions will result in slow drains at best and sewage backing up into the house at the worst.

Most home buyers, prior to settling or closing on a house,  have the “usual” inspections performed recommended by real estate agents – general home inspection, roof inspection, radon test, mold test, and if applicable, septic system, private well and chimney inspections.  But most buyers don’t have sewer lines or plumbing inspected by a licensed plumber believing it is the county or city’s responsibility if something goes awry.  The reality is that the county or city is rarely responsible for any problem that lies on your personal property – it’s up to you to maintain the portion of the sewer line on your property.

Many home buyers also believe that the general home inspection will uncover any problems with the sewer line or the plumbing. However, most general home inspectors will only check to see that the toilets flush, drains drain, and water flows without leaking. However, houses that have been vacant for even a short period of time will often pass this type of inspection easily.

The bottom line is that sewer line trouble usually won’t show until you and your family have been living in the house for a few weeks or even just a few days.

One recent home buyer noticed within a month after moving into their new house that the drains were slow, and eventually there was a backup into the basement sink. We cleaned the drain pipe, and soon after the problem recurred. After sending a camera down for inspection, we discovered multiple bellies in the line. A “belly’ in the line is a low area of pipe that negatively effects the slope of the pipe so that as water and solids go through the pipe they lose speed and can settle in the low area eventually causing a clog. They’re caused by either improper installation of the pipe or from earth settling beneath the pipe.

These home buyers needed approximately 65 feet of new pipe installed with the correct positive slope to fix the issue.  The whole project took a day and a half, involved digging up the entire pipe, adding a layer of crushed rock to prevent settling, and then replacing the pipe on the correct slope - and wasn’t exactly cheap. If the problem had been discovered in the “inspection phase” of the home buying process, the home buyers could have negotiated with the sellers to have the drainpipe fixed or possibly even decide not to buy the house at all.

Below is a video of Master Plumber Pat Scheper sending a camera down the main sewer pipe of a home buyer’s potential new house. These home buyers discovered the bellies in the pipe before they purchased the home so were able to renegotiate the price of the house with the sellers based on the cost to repair the pipe.

Another customer noticed after they moved into their new house that the only drain cleanout was inside the house - right smack in the middle of a wall in the finished basement with new carpet and drywall. There wasn’t an exterior cleanout anywhere to be found on the property.

In the event of a backup, the only access to clean the main line out would be in the finished basement. The thought of opening up that pipe in the middle of the customer’s living room – well, grossed her completely out, so we installed an outside clean out shortly after they moved in.

To sum things up, a camera inspection of the main sewer line should be included along with all the other usual inspections buyers include in a home purchase offer.  The sewer line inspection can be performed on the same day as other inspections and takes about an hour or two at most.

If you’re buying a home, call us to schedule for a camera inspection of the sewer line before you reach the settlement table!

Apple Plumbing Nominated Carroll's Best Fourth Year in a Row!

The results are in! Apple Plumbing was nominated for the fourth year in a row as Carroll County's Best Plumber in the Carroll County Times' "Carroll's Best" contest. This year, Apple also recived an Honorable Mention for Best Water Softening/Conditioning Company. Thank you to all who voted!

Apple Plumbing & Heating VP Ben Scheper Selected to BBJ's '40 Under 40'

Westminster, Maryland. August 19, 2015. Ben Scheper, Apple Plumbing & Heating Inc. Vice President, was selected as one of Baltimore Business Journal's “40 Under 40”, a prestigious designation awarded annually to forty up and coming business professionals under the age of forty. Scheper was selected from over 350 nominees ranging in industries from banking, finance, retail, law, non-profits and more. In 2009, Ben graduated from the Robert H. Smith School of Business at the University of Maryland with a BA in Finance and began working at Apple that same year. He is responsible for developing and implementing many of the company's current procedures and processes which have led to Apple Plumbing's current success.

For more info about the Baltimore Business Journal's '40 Under 40', visit the web page: http://www.bizjournals.com/baltimore/news/2015/08/19/here-are-our-2015-40-under-40-honorees.html

Apple Plumbing provides general plumbing, well pump, water treatment, drain cleaning, and water heater services to Carroll, Frederick, Baltimore, and Howard County residents and contractors. The company was founded in 1994 by Pat and Sue Scheper both with strong ties to the community and a keen sense for customer service. The business grew by word-of-mouth and soon moved to their current location on Aileron Court in Westminster, Maryland. Since then, the company has expanded its shop space and now has a full team of seven plumbers and apprentices, three office personnel, five trucks, and one Goldendoodle named Bunker.

Apple Plumbing & Heating has received numerous awards for excellence in service and for business innovation. These include: Carroll’s Best 2012 and 2013, Carroll County Chamber Business of the Year 2012, Maryland Breakthrough Business Award 2013, and Angie’s List Super Service Award 2013 and 2014.

New Water Heaters for The Hill Family Central Y

In late June, Apple Plumbing & Heating, Inc. installed a new, high efficient hot water system for The Hill Family Center Y.The following photos and description details the work that was done, the planning that went into it and how this installation helped the Y reduce their carbon footprint.

The old system that the Y of Central Maryland was using consisted of two 80 gallon propane water heaters with a 200 gallon storage tank. This old system had an efficiency of less than 60%.

The Y chose to have us install a new, high efficiency tankless water heating system. This system consists of five 95% efficient propane-fired water heaters with a recirculating pump and integral system controller. We chose Noritz water heaters for their dependability, ease of programming and factory support. Off the bat, we estimate the Hill Family Center Y will burn over 2,500 LESS gallons of propane gas annually. By my research and calculations that is over 31,000 lbs LESS carbon dioxide being emitted into the air each year! The new system has no storage tanks that need to be constantly heated even if no hot water is being used. The heaters only heat water as needed. If no hot water is flowing, the heaters are not burning gas. The system comes with a controller that monitors hot water flow and turns on heaters as needed. If a little hot water is required, only one heater will fire. In addition, each heater modulates its gas usage from 15,000 BTU to 199,000 BTU.

As you can see, the system is compact which reflects its efficiency. Our team of Jordan, Bruce and Luke worked long days for a full week in order to get the Hill Family Center Y back on line with hot water. Jordan spent a full day the week before the job planning out the installation. There was quite a bit of piping installed in a very small space. They had to install gas piping, cold water piping, hot water piping, recirculating piping, condensate piping and flue piping. All in three days. In total, the project took five days. The last two days were spent on electrical wiring and control wiring. Tim Kyle Electric was our subcontractor for the electrical work. His crew was challenged to integrate the new system with old controls and wiring. It took some creative thinking but Tim Kyle Electric, along with Jordan, figured out the sequencing and was able to fire up the system on Friday afternoon to bring the Hill Family Center Y back on line with hot water as promised.

All of us at Apple Plumbing congratulate the Hill Family Canter Y for their commitment to our environment. They chose a system that provides their members with an abundance of hot water while saving energy and decreasing their carbon footprint. Their decision results in a great benefit not only for their organization and members, but to the community they serve. Jordan, Bruce, Luke, and all of us at Apple Plumbing are honored to have been given the responsibility to design and install a high efficient hot water generating system for the Hill Family Center Y. We value the confidence placed in our team and are proud of the product we delivered.

Water Heater Manufacturing Changes for 2015 - What You Need to Know

Everyone who has hot, running water in their home today has some type of water heater they depend on. As the name indicates, the water heater’s primary function is to provide a household with hot water in which to bathe, wash dishes, do laundry, and a host of other every day activities. Because water heaters are such important features, the rules, codes and safety regulations surrounding them are constantly being evaluated, updated and improved. The next series of changes will begin early this spring. As a homeowner, it’s important to be aware of any regulation changes that could affect your heater, when the time comes to install a new one. Therefore, Apple Plumbing has done our research and below, we’ve outlined all future changes in manufacturing coming in April 2015. Briefly, the department of Energy (DOE), as part of the National Appliance Energy Association Act (NAECA), issued new energy efficiency mandates in 2010. In 2015, those mandates will be applied and all water heater manufacturers will be required to comply. The update, effective starting April 16, 2015, will require higher Energy Factor (EF) ratings on almost all residential gas, electric, oil and tankless gas water heaters. The Energy Factor is the ratio of useful energy output from the water heater to the total amount of energy delivered to the water heater. The higher the EF is, the more efficient the water heater.

It is important to note that these changes are manufacturer requirements and not homeowner, wholesaler, or plumber requirements. This means, that starting 4/16/15, all water heater manufacturers will have to cease production of heaters designed to comply to current codes, and begin making them to meet the new rules. This does not mean that homeowners must replace their water heaters, or wholesalers have to stop selling all already-manufactured water heaters that don’t comply, nor does it mean that plumbers have to stop installing them. We can continue to install existing inventory until they’re gone, at which time only water heaters meeting the new EF ratings will be available for purchase. Parts for the currently existing models should continue to work for the updated units, as the primary change will be seen in tank sizing and in new, additional equipment.

If you know the type of heater you have, you can review the information for it below and how the changes might affect you.

[expand title="Residential Gas Water Heaters Less than 55 Gallons"]

• The Energy Factor has been increased from .55 to .675
• Gas water heaters can no longer have a standing pilot, all water heaters will need to plug into an electrical outlet for electronic ignition
• Due to the increase in heat output, more insulation will be needed. Because of this, the size of the heater will likely have to expand. It is estimated that the new heaters will be 1”-2” taller, and 2” wider in diameter.
• How does all this affect you? If your heater is installed in a tight corner, small closet or other narrow space, when it’s time to replace your heater, the technicians performing the work could run into problems trying to fit a larger heater in the small space, and may end up needing to move it to a new location, which would likely require additional work to the piping and water supply. A licensed electrician may be needed to install a new electrical outlet next to your water heater.
• Other Options
  • Reduce the size of the heater, increase the temperature in the tank, and put a mixing valve to mix cold water in with the hotter water as it comes out of the tank. This increase the effective gallon capacity of the smaller heater to your original size
  • Tankless water heater

[/expand]

[expand title="Residential Gas Water Heaters Greater Than 55 Gallons"]

• The Energy Factor has been increased from .55 to .8012
• Gas water heaters can no longer have a standing pilot, all water heaters will need to plug into an electrical outlet for electronic ignition
• Due to the increase in heat output, more insulation will be needed. Because of this, the size of the heater will likely have to expand. It is estimated that the new heaters will be 1”-2” taller, and 2” wider in diameter.
• Additional heating tubes, bigger flues, and other venting equipment will be required to heat the water more efficiently
• A condensate drain would most likely need to be installed to dispose of extra condensate being emitted.
• How does all this affect you? If your heater is installed in a tight corner, small closet or other narrow space, when it’s time to replace your heater, the technicians performing the work could run into problems trying to fit a larger heater in the small space, and may end up needing to move it to a new location, which would likely require additional work to the piping and water supply. Additional work would also be required to install the necessary venting equipment. A licensed electrician may be needed to install a new electrical outlet next to your water heater.
• Other Options
  • Reduce the size of the heater to below 55 gallons, increase the temperature in the tank, and put a mixing valve to mix cold water in with the hotter water as it comes out of the tank. This increase the effective gallon capacity of the smaller heater to your original size
  • Tankless water heater

[/expand]

[expand title="Residential Electric Water Heaters Less Than 55 Gallons"]

• The Energy Factor has been increased from .93 to .96
• Due to the increase in heat output, more insulation will be needed. Because of this, the size of the heater will likely have to expand. It is estimated that the new heaters will be 1”-2” taller, and 2” wider in diameter.
• How does all this affect you? If your heater is installed in a tight corner, small closet or other narrow space, when it’s time to replace your heater, the technicians performing the work could run into problems trying to fit a larger heater in the small space, and may end up needing to move it to a new location, which would likely require additional work to the piping and water supply.
• Other options
  • Reduce the size of the heater, increase the temperature in the tank, and put a mixing valve to mix cold water in with the hotter water as it comes out of the tank. This increase the effective gallon capacity of the smaller heater to your original size

[/expand]

[expand title="Residential Electric Water Heaters Greater Than 55 Gallons"]

• The biggest Energy Factor change is seen in electric heaters larger than 55 gallons.
  • 65 gallons: Increase from .88 to 1.98
  • 80 gallons: Increase from .86 to 1.97
  • 120 gallons: from 1.00 to 1.92
• The only current technology to achieve an energy factor over 1.00 is heat pump technology, likely integrated on top of the heater unit. Water heaters with a heat pump use the refrigeration cycle and air in your home to greatly increase the efficiency of the water heater.
  • This will require 700-1,000 cubic feet of space.
  • The ambient room temperature will affect the performance of the pump, as it draws energy from the heat in the air.
    • A cooler room means the heater will take longer to heat the water in the unit, versus a warmer room which will have a greater energy supply from which the pump can draw.
• The increased heat will create condensate, so a drain will need to be installed for disposal.
  • How does this affect you? The heat pump technology may require regular servicing such as cleaning and changing of filters. The pump can be noisy, so the noise level in the room your water heater is in will increase and consideration as to what rooms are near the water heater may need to be given. Additional work will need to be performed by the technicians installing your new water heater, to also install the heat pump technology and new drain.
• Other Options
  • Reduce the size of the heater to below 55 gallons, increase the temperature in the tank, and put a mixing valve to mix cold water in with the hotter water as it comes out of the tank. This increase the effective gallon capacity of the smaller heater to your original size
  • Install 2 smaller heaters, such as 40 gallon electrics, that do not require heat pump technology

[/expand]

[expand title="Other Water Heaters"]

• The Energy Factor will increase from .53 to .62 in the 30 gallon size and increase from .50 to .59 in the 50 gallon size.
• Due to more heat transfer technology needed for oil-fired heaters because of the Energy Factor increase, there is the possibility the unit will be much heavier than the current standard model.
• Due to the increase in heat output, more insulation will be needed. Because of this, the size of the heater will likely have to expand. It is estimated that the new heaters will be 1”-2” taller, and 2” wider in diameter.
  • How does this affect you? If your heater is installed in a tight corner, small closet or other narrow space, when it’s time to replace your heater, the technicians performing the work could run into problems trying to fit a larger heater in the small space, and may end up needing to move it to a new location, which would likely require additional work to the piping and water supply.
• Residential Gas Tankless
  • No Energy Factor requirement exists, so an EF Rating of .82 will be implemented
  • To our knowledge all tankless water heaters currently meet this rating, those few that don’t will undergo technology changes to comply
• Residential Electric Tankless
  • No Energy Factor requirement exists, so an EF Rating of .93 will be implemented
  • To our knowledge all tankless water heaters currently meet this rating, those few that don’t will undergo technology changes to comply

[/expand]

After reading all the information pertaining to your model of water heater- the changes coming and what it could mean for you, you’ll need to consider what you might do to prepare. The greatest advantage you have in knowing this information ahead of time is that you have the opportunity to be proactive. Rather than waiting for your heater to suddenly spring a leak and have to hire a plumber out right away to take care of the leak and all the possible headaches that could come with moving the heater to a new location, adding in new piping and other necessary technology, you can plan ahead and get the work done before it becomes an emergency.

We know this is a lot of information to take in. We want to reassure you that Apple Plumbing is here for you when the time does come, and that we are keeping ahead of the curve by studying all changes and being ready to answer any questions you may have. Come April 16 and in the months to follow, we will be knowledgeable and equipped to do what is necessary in replacing your heater to ensure it fits well, is installed properly, and will continue giving you and your home the hot water you need.

Apple Plumbing & Heating Adds Sixth Licensed Plumber to the Team!

Westminster, Maryland. January 5, 2015. Apple Plumbing & Heating Inc., a full service plumbing company located in Westminster, Maryland is pleased to announce that licensed Journeyman Jason Winstead has joined the Apple Plumbing Team. Jason has over seven years’ experience in the plumbing industry with expertise includes drain cleaning, well systems, and water heaters. Jason also served in the United States Air Force from 1997-1999 and currently lives in New Freedom, PA.

Apple Plumbing provides general plumbing, well pump, water treatment, drain cleaning, and water heater services to Carroll, Frederick, Baltimore, and Howard County residents and contractors. The company was founded in 1994 by Pat and Sue Scheper both with strong ties to the community and a keen sense for customer service. The business grew by word-of-mouth and by 2009, son Ben Scheper came on board and the company soon moved to their current location on Aileron Court in Westminster, Maryland. Since then, the company has expanded its shop space and now has a full team of six plumbers, two apprentices, three office personnel, five trucks, and one Goldendoodle named Bunker.

Apple Plumbing & Heating has received numerous awards for excellence in service and for business innovation. These include: Carroll’s Best 2012, 2013 and 2014, Carroll County Chamber Business of the Year 2012, Maryland Breakthrough Business Award 2013, and Angie’s List Super Service Award 2013.

Getting Ready for Winter!

Remember the Polar Vortex last winter? During the week of January 6-10, we did well over 100 frozen pipe emergency calls!! By Wednesday afternoon that week, all of our techs had put in 40 hours and were into overtime. I’ve been in the plumbing service business 46 years and I have NEVER seen anything like that. And it continued on for weeks. Weather forecasters are predicting a “colder than average” winter for the East Coast this year. Because of an early snow in the Siberian Dessert we stand a good chance for another Polar Vortex. Dang! So, there are a few things you need to consider with your plumbing system to prepare for the possible frigid weather this winter:

Outside hoses and faucets. I suggest removing your hoses from your hose bibs and drain them completely. Coil them up and store them in a safe place. Outside hose bibs should be winterized too. If you have frost free hose bibs, all you generally need to do is disconnect your hose. These faucets are self-draining….for the most part. In some situations the frost free feature has been compromised through faulty installation or interior changes in your house such as a basement finish. Check it out. Traditional hose bibs do not have a frost free feature and must be shut off with an interior valve and the pipe drained.

Overhangs. If you have plumbing on an overhang, you need to make sure the piping in the overhang is properly insulated, that the building insulation is properly installed, and that any cracks or openings in your siding and exterior finish are sealed.

Well pits. Last winter we had more than one customer with an old time well pit in their yard. This is basically a cinderblock pit anywhere from 3’-6’ deep and 5’-6’ squared with a concrete lit and an access opening. We had such a prolonged sub-freezing period that the pipes in the pits would freeze. In most cases a portable heater will keep the pipes from freezing. Be aware that well pits are very moist environments so protect yourself from electrical shock. You may want to have a licensed electrician take a look for you.

Pipes in exterior walls. Many people last winter experience frozen pipes in exterior walls that, fortunately, froze but didn’t burst. They were lucky!! If you had this situation, you should investigate your situation and look for cracks or openings in your wall and make sure you have sufficient insulation. Barring that, what you can do is when frigid weather is predicted is open a faucet in the affected sink or bathtub and let water trickle out. The moving water generally keeps pipes from freezing.

Sump pumps. Make sure your sump pump discharge pipe is clear and the outlet is not blocked by snow and ice. Many people have water treatment and/or condensing furnaces that discharge into the sump pump pit. If the sump pump pipe is blocked and your water treatment regenerates, you could have a mess in your basement. So find your sump pump discharge pipe outside now when there is no snow hiding it.

Power Outages. This has not much to do with plumbing as with life safety. Many people don’t have the luxury of an emergency generator. So, what to do when the power goes out and it’s cold outside? We lost our power twice last winter and, boy howdy, did it get cold in the house. We are fortunate enough to have a fireplace in our family room. So, we built a fire, lit some candles, shut the door and hunkered down for a cold night. There is one plumbing task I did before I turned in: I shut off my main water valve and drained the pipes. I also shut off the electric to the water heater. I opened every faucet in the house and let the pipes drain down to the laundry tub (the lowest fixture in my house). I you experience a prolonged outage in sub-freezing temperatures, your pipes will freeze….and possibly burst.

Sprinkler pipes. Many houses now have a fire sprinkler system. Some older ones also. In many of those sprinkled houses there are sprinkler pipes in the attic. Over time, attic insulation can settle and exposed the sprinkler pipes. Also, homeowners store items in their attics and can disturb the insulation. Sprinkler pipes can freeze, burst, and cause severe property damage. We had a customer in Hampstead last winter who experienced this very situation. As best we can tell, her attic sprinkler pipe burst shortly after everyone left for work in the morning and water flowed for about 10 hours. The entire house had to be gutted and redone. New kitchen cabinets, new carpet, new hardwood floors, new furniture, all clothing had to be dry cleaned and the family had to live in a hotel for months. If you have a sprinkler system, check your attic insulation. Even with homeowners insurance, the disruption can be overwhelming.

That’s about it. The best advice I can give is “Be Prepared”. Frozen and busted water pipes can cause quite a bit of property damage….especially if they burst while no one is home.

Bunker Noses Up to the Camera

Apple Plumbing Wins Carroll's Best Plumber for Third Year in a Row!

Thank you Carroll County for voting us Best Plumber in the 2014 Carroll's Best awards! We appreciate your continued patronage and support and value each and every one of our customers. Thank you again! 

Bunker Takes a Bath

Apple Plumbing & Heating Welcomes New Technician

Westminster, Maryland. August 27, 2014. Apple Plumbing & Heating Inc., a full service plumbing company located in Westminster, Maryland is pleased to announce that licensed Journeyman Chris Mills has joined the Apple Plumbing Team. Chris has over twenty years’ experience in the plumbing industry and has been licensed since 1996. Chris’s expertise includes water treatment systems, well pumps, constant pressure systems, and water heaters.

Apple Plumbing provides general plumbing, well pump, water treatment, drain cleaning, and water heater services to Carroll, Frederick, Baltimore, and Howard County residents and contractors. The company was founded in 1994 by Pat and Sue Scheper both with strong ties to the community and a keen sense for customer service. The business grew by word-of-mouth and by 2009, son Ben Scheper came on board and the company soon moved to their current location on Aileron Court in Westminster, Maryland. Since then, the company has expanded its shop space and now has a full team of plumbers and apprentices, three office personnel, five trucks, and one Goldendoodle named Bunker.

Apple Plumbing & Heating has received numerous awards for excellence in service and for business innovation. These include: Carroll’s Best 2012 and 2013, Carroll County Chamber Business of the Year 2012, Maryland Breakthrough Business Award 2013, and Angie’s List Super Service Award 2013.

Bunker's New Glasses

Bunker Gets a Hair Cut

Bunker

Bunker in Disguise

Bunker on Vacation